FAQ
Q. What
is the most efficient thermostat setting for air
conditioning?
A. The best setting is the highest temperature
at which you are comfortable. The cost of operating
your air conditioner increases significantly with
each degree the thermostat is lowered. Most people
can be comfortable at settings between 24 - 26°C
(75 - 78°F).
Q. What
does the term "tons" mean in the context of air
conditioning?
A. A ton is a measure of the size or cooling
capacity of an air conditioner. One ton is equivalent
to removing 12,000 BTUs of heat per hour. For
example, a three ton air conditioner can remove
36,000 BTUs per hour.
Q. When
I replace my central air conditioner, would it
be more efficient to get a larger unit? Will it
make the house more comfortable?
A. It is best to get a properly sized
unit. Although a larger unit may run for shorter
periods of time, it will use more electricity
due to its larger size.
Q. What
does the "EER" or "SEER" rating on an air conditioner
mean?
A. Both EER (Energy Efficiency Ratio)
and SEER (Seasonal Energy Efficiency Ratio) are
cooling efficiency terms and are indicators of
how efficient the unit is. The higher the number,
the more efficient the unit and the lower the
operating cost. SEER is used with central air
conditioners, while EER is used with room air
conditioners. For new central systems, SEERs of
12 or higher are generally considered high-efficiency
units. For room units, EERs of 11 or higher are
considered high-efficiency.
Q. What
is the recommended SEER rating for a central air
conditioner?
A. Ratings of 11.0 to 12.0 are common,
and will have lower operating costs, and units
with SEERs as high as 15 are available. The more
you use your central air conditioning, the more
you will benefit from higher SEER ratings, and
the more likely that the additional cost will
be offset by energy savings.
Q. I
have one room in my home that is always too hot
in the summer – what can I do to make that room
more comfortable?
A. If the room has a large area of exposed
glass, keep curtains or blinds closed during daylight
hours, particularly at times when the sun would
shine directly in. You might also ask your air
conditioning contractor to check whether you are
getting enough air in that room - there may be
a problem with your duct system.
Q.
I have my air conditioning system checked every
year, and it always seems to need "recharging"
with refrigerant – is this normal?
A. Refrigerant does not shrink or disappear
– a need for regular recharging indicates a refrigerant
leak. The solution is to fix the leak, not to
keep recharging the system.
Q.
Will ceiling fans help cool my home in summer,
and should I run them constantly, even when my
air conditioning is running?
A. Ceiling fans can help make the home
more comfortable, either alone or in combination
with your air conditioner, by creating more air
movement, which makes the air feel cooler. But
remember that they do not actually cool the air,
so there is no point in running them in unoccupied
rooms or when no one is at home.
Q. Should
I remove window air conditioners in the winter?
A. Window air conditioners should be either
removed or sealed in winter to prevent cold air
from entering the home and warm air escaping.
Insulated covers are available, which can be effective
in reducing this air leakage if it is not feasible
to remove the units. Sealing the inside and outside
of the units with plastic sheeting can also be
effective.
Q. What
is a "whole house fan" and is it a good option
for cooling my home?
A. A whole house fan is a large ventilating
fan, typically mounted in a ceiling between the
living space and attic. The fan draws air out
of the living space and exhausts it to the attic,
and then out through the attic vents. For the
most effective ventilation, a window or windows
in the lower part of the house should be partially
opened, to bring cooler air into the home. These
fans can be an effective supplement to air conditioning,
but unlike an air conditioning system, they do
nothing to reduce indoor humidity.
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